Glacier Bay National Park

A pod of killer whales surrounded the Sea Bird just before our morning wake up call in Glacier Bay National Park. The low mist hung heavily over the steely gray water as imposing black dorsal fins sliced through the water’s surface. The killer whales swam just off the bow, where we looked down in sleepy-eyed awe. After viewing the whales, we had enough time to fill our coffee mugs before visions of sea otters filled our binoculars. Kelp forests have formed in an area just off Boulders, where the shallow reef creates the perfect environment for the sea otters. It was a case of mutual curiosity: we stood on deck looking at these adorable little creatures, who, in turn, swam closer and popped their heads up to get a good look at the adorable big creatures above them.

We continued on to South Marble Island, a haul out for Steller’s sea lions, as well as an excellent opportunity for bird watching. Puffins, pigeon guillemots, blacklegged kittiwakes and marbled murrelets buzzed about. We witnessed a yearling nursing, as the sea lions went about their morning, sliding on their bellies, barking and squawking at each other. The fuchsia fireweed dotting the island provided a vibrant splash of color to this rocky outcrop teeming with life.

In the late morning, as we pulled out of Tidal Inlet, we spotted a large brown bear descending down the rocks, to the water’s edge. We had excellent looks as it walked along the shoreline, its distinguishing shoulder hump protruding from its back. We continued on around the corner to Gloomy Knob, where we spotted more wildlife – our first glimpse of mountain goats on this voyage. A mother and her kid moved up and over the slick, steep rocks with graceful agility.

Mid-afternoon, we reached our furthest point north in the park to the massive wall of ice known as Margerie Glacier. A large, hollowed out half moon sat at the base of Margerie’s face, with a powerful rush of water streaming out of a perfect circle in the cave’s wall. The sounds of crackling and shifting ice hinted at imminent calving, and to our delight, a large column of ice crashed into the water. We stood patiently, watching and contemplating the ice movement when, from the same active point, a massive chunk of ice broke free from Margerie, thundering into the water below, creating an enormous splash and wave in a remarkable display of the glacier’s power and intensity. Our visit to Margerie, once a tributary to the Grand Pacific Glacier, reminded us of the impressive geological forces that molded and shaped what is now Glacier Bay National Park.