Santa Cruz Island

The day dawned rather overcast, which is typical of this time of year. A light “garúa” kept a tight hold of the southeastern side of the island as the Polaris pulled into the harbour. The mist held firm until mid-morning when the sun started to break through just as we finished our visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station. Perhaps the sun had an effect on the shoppers, because it seemed as if purchases appeared by magic in everyone’s hands by the time we headed into the highlands. Competitive volleyball was followed by delicious lunch which continued with further exploration.

The afternoon was spent visiting the endemic forest of Scalesia trees where vermillion flycatchers and Darwin’s finches (including the woodpecker finch no less!) shared the unusual vegetation zone with Galápagos doves and massive pit craters.

Over twelve giant tortoises were counted roaming (albeit very slowly) the grassy fields. These are the large males, who are just now making their way further up into the cool and green highlands of the islands after spending a few months in the warm lowlands during the wet season. They would prefer to remain warm all year (being reptiles), however the lowlands become too dry and food sparse during the dry season also known as the “garua” season. This famous inversion layer hits the islands primarily at the higher elevations, keeping it lushly green from July to November, but also damp and cool; too cool for the smaller females and juveniles.

Music, dancing and good company finished of the evening on board while the ship rode quietly at anchor in Academy Bay, southeastern Santa Cruz Island.