Tuam & Tami Islands
An early breakfast, and a busy time ahead today. Our first stop is Tuam Island, a lovely raised-coral island in the Siassi district, with a population of c. 300, who look to the nearby large island of Umboi as their ‘mainland.’ They form a small part of the well-known Vitiaz Strait trading system, exporting fish and pandanus mats and receiving pottery, smoked meat, and other foodstuffs from mainland PNG. At the landing site, the school-children greeted us with a beautifully rendered welcome song, the most melodious performance I’ve ever heard in Melanesia. Evangelical Lutherans, the islanders have their own kastom dance company, which performed expertly for us. Larry warned us it would be hot, and he was right, but such was the warmth of the people and the high quality of their dancing that we were very pleasantly distracted.
Large windbreak panels protecting both houses and gardens were a unique feature—and a testament to the strength of the midwinter winds that hammer Tuam and bring the bulk of its rain. Large tanks collecting runoff from tin roofs are prominent, indicating that at times the island is short of this precious commodity. Artefacts on sale included some black-painted coconut shells with beautifully inscribed designs. I saw a ten-shilling Head Tax sign from 1930, issued by the Australian Administration of the time. Pandanus is a well-used local resource, the large, hardy leaves as a roofing material and the thinner and softer smaller ones used for basketry.
We bid the locals a reluctant farewell and set sail for Tami Island mid-morning. Bob Tonkinson talked to us about swidden horticulture, staple foods, and watercraft in Melanesia, then after lunch we reached Tami Island, also a raised-coral island, with a channel separating it from an inhabited low island. The locals were ready for us: near the school they sat in a large rectangle, with their wares on the ground and eager for some custom. The quality of their wooden carvings is exceptional—in my view on par with those of the Trobriands, which are the best PNG has to offer. Following a short, well rendered sing-sing, it was time for hard decisions: so much beautiful craft on offer, and today our guests were, unsurprisingly, in a buying mood. In ideal conditions, with a cool breeze wafting, it was with reluctance that we reboarded Xplorer, but snorkelling had been promised, and within 40 minutes, Xplorer was off and running again.
