Lababia, Papua New Guinea

Early this morning, well, before morning really, we arrived at the village of Lababia. For those who are keen, there is a pre-breakfast landing to search for birds of paradise. It is a little misty this morning, making bird spotting difficult, but I am told that the sights, sounds and smells of the village awakening are quite extraordinary… yawning people, barking dogs and cook fires.

After breakfast we go back ashore, braving the ‘threat welcome’ and watch several groups perform in a sing sing. The ‘threat welcome’ involves a mock attack and then permission to enter the village. The sing sing is right next to a beautiful sandy beach near the school and a small market, created for our benefit.

This is a very progressive community. They have created their own preserve, the Kamiali Wildlife Conservation Area, which includes the protection of nesting leatherback sea turtles and a swath of low, montane forest. There is even a Guest House facility built in the forest that is also used for educating children about nature and their lives in it.

Following the sing sing and some very well done demonstrations on grass skirt making, shell arm band making, canoe making, sail making and sago making, we made our way to a river. We crossed the river on comfortable outriggers and entered the Conservation Area for a bit of a hike. After somewhat less than a mile we are again met by the outriggers for a leisurely ride down the river, between mangroves and nipa palms, back to our landing site.

The afternoon is at sea with lunch, naps, a talk and a bit of time to catch up.