Storfjord, Svalbard

The past 24 hours are a fine example of the unpredictable nature of expedition travel. If we had started with ‘Plan A,’ we would be more than halfway through the alphabet by now.

Late last night our first attempt to head north up the east coast of the Svalbard archipelago proved impassable due to dense pack ice. Time for a new plan. Tim, our Expedition Leader, and Captain Skog consulted, and we turned the ship around, headed back south and entered Storfjord – the body of water between Edgøya and Spitsbergen. We then tried to go north again. During the day we made good progress and made plans to go ashore, first at Russebukta and then Kapp Lee. On each occasion we were reminded why Svalbard is called ‘land of the ice bears.’ For, on each occasion, a polar bear on the landing site prevented us from going ashore. Time for a new plan – we loaded the Zodiacs and cruised inshore to obtain better views of the bears and, at Kapp Lee, a large concentration of about 150 walrus on the beach and in the near shore waters.

It is now late evening and we are continuing to make progress to the north. Once more we are in sea ice and keeping a keen eye out for wildlife. With 24 hours of daylight here in the high Arctic, sightings could come at any time and as we head to bed we do not know when the wake up call for bears or other wildlife may come. Another typical day of expedition travel. Sorry, must run, four (!) polar bears just seen on the ice at a kill with ivory gulls…