Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
What can I say about today? Magical . . . unforgettable . . . spectacular . . . “whale soup”. We went out in pangas in the morning and again in the afternoon, seeking gray whales in Bahia Almejas. With ideal conditions, calm wind and water, we were rewarded with excellent views of gray whale blows, backs, heads, and flukes as they rolled at the surface, took breaths, and occasionally came close to our pangas. They spy hopped (lifted their heads vertically out of the water) and swam slowly. We were grateful to observe them so peacefully in this lagoon where they were once hunted. It was an absolutely wonderful and memorable day.
National Geographic Quest woke early in Gatun Lake to a beautiful sunrise and stillness. Breakfast was early as well so we could head out to our morning activities. Local pangas (a term for a skiff with outboard motor) met the ship to take guests to the discovery center on Barro Colorado Island. This hike provided monkey sightings and great information about the island. Zodiac rides in the morning were held around the lake and led by local guides provided by the Smithsonian Institute. We were able to see the keel-billed toucan high in the trees, which was a treat to see in the wild. Excursions on the lake were also had this afternoon as we awaited a transit of the last and final lock to make our way to the Atlantic side of the canal at the end of our incredible expedition.
This island is considered the oldest island in the Galapagos Archipelago, therefore many unique species can be observed here, species that can only be found on Española. The island is full of boulders, and at first glance it looks very dry and uninhabited, but as you walk along its trails you begin to discover the abundance of wildlife. Nazca boobies, Galapagos sea lions, Española mockingbirds, Española lava lizards, and several species of finches are just few of the attractions of Punta Suarez. This island provides a great opportunity for photographing ecologically naïve animals that can’t be found anywhere else in the world. Get your cameras ready!
We started our day with a perfect sunrise tinting the clouds in fading pinks and oranges. We had an all-in-one day starting with snorkeling by the colorful rocky shores of Punta Colorada, a place that is only accessible when we have perfectly calm conditions as we had today. We spotted a humpback whale straight from the dining room during lunch, and right after we headed back out for our arroyo hikes and kayaking. The cove was unbelievably beautiful. Trapped in the sandstone, we found innumerable fossils of shells and even the carapace of a turtle and some whalebones. We also learned of the Baja California desert vegetation and history from our informative naturalist that led the way. We went kayaking which provided a spectacular perspective of the tall pink and yellow walls that line the coves. From Zodiacs we could enjoy the enviable views of this pristine island. We are only on day one of National Geographic Venture’s Among the Great Whales expedition and we have seen and done so much. We feel accomplished yet we’re hungry for more!
Today was our last day on this magnificent voyage, and we sure ended it with a bang! Torres del Paine was on the agenda today, with stunning views and beautiful mountains. We started exploring early in the morning and had a few drops of rain, but the sun peeked out by lunchtime, and we had a gorgeous day. As we ventured onward, we spotted a lot of wildlife, including guanacos, Andean condors, rheas, and a very lucky sighting of a young puma! After a lunch stop that left us more than happy, we headed back to National Geographic Resolution for the captain’s cocktail reception and farewell dinner.