Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
We reached the penultimate day of our journey in Astoria, Oregon, where the Columbia River collides with the open ocean. We were met with a typical Pacific Northwest day of gentle rains punctuated by moments of sunshine. The guests were divided to conquer this gem of a city, nestled under bridges; half headed across the river to Washington to visit the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center at Cape Disappointment, while the other half visited the Columbia River Maritime Museum and Astoria Column. The museum and the interpretive center are both excellent examples of what the west coast can offer with regard to history and culture. Each has thoughtful exhibits that cover broad swaths of topics, and are staffed with informative and helpful faculty. After a hearty lunch on board, the groups swapped in order to have the best of both worlds. Finally, all met back aboard for the week’s final recap and guest slideshow.
Today was another amazing day aboard National Geographic Sea Lion . In the morning we cruised through Wrangell Narrows, a beautiful channel filled with harbor seals, Sitka black-tailed deer, and countless bald eagles. After lunch we disembarked for various activities, including photo walks around the town of Petersburg, bike rides around the city, and hikes through old-growth forests and muskegs. A real highlight was learning about the medicinal uses of native plants from a local Tlingit naturalist. We talked about traditional uses of red cedar, Devil’s club, blueberry, and much more. We’re excited to cruise up toward Tracy Arm overnight, and are looking forward to the rest of our time aboard National Geographic Sea Lion !
Nestled in the narrowest part of the Columbia River Gorge, National Geographic Sea Bird sailed from the sagebrush-step system to a temperate rainforest. We arrived at Hood River, the ultimate playground for wind lovers and recreationalists from Washington and Oregon. Guests visited the majestic 620-ft Multnomah Falls, then crossed the river to climb 52 switchbacks up Beacon Rock — the 880-ft volcanic plug that inspired Lewis and Clark to forge on to the Pacific Ocean in 1805. Another group enjoyed tasty appetizers, pFriem beer, and Syncline wine tastings at the gorgeous Columbia Gorge Interpretive Center. The tastes of the gorge set the scene for our final transit through Bonneville Dam and Lock; accompanied by bubbles and a festive playlist, it encouraged a mini dance party on the bow of National Geographic Sea Bird ! Wine expert Eric Degerman delivered a talk on Lewis and Clark’s Trail to World No.1 Wine, followed by recap and dinner. The evening culminated in trivia night, to cap off our epic journey down the mighty Columbia River! Photographers: Patrick MacQuarrie, River Historian and Naturalist , and Maria Cecilla Alzamora Mac, Guest
It was a short night on board National Geographic Sea Lion . Just before midnight our expedition leader, Anna, woke everyone for northern lights! Clear skies were filled with stars, and the aurora borealis glowed at the edge of the northern sky. Ribbons of green with a dark purple backdrop greeted everyone on the bow. For many on board it was their first time seeing the northern lights, truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience! We had another wake-up call at 6:45 a.m., this time for a customs stop entering United States waters. We were met by two very nice customs officers, and our entry into home waters went well. Our vessel then continued up Behm Canal, watching for the enormous marker of New Eddystone Rock. This volcanic plug, left over from a violent geologic history, marks the entry into Rudyard Bay and eventually Misty Fjords, where we spent the remainder of our day kayaking and Zodiac cruising. Misty Fjords is one of eighteen National Monuments in Alaska; it consists of 3,570 square miles of untouched shorelines, towering granite cliffs carved by glaciers 17,000 years ago, and is covered in coastal temperate rainforest.
This morning was our final day in Haida Gwaii. The day commenced with an awe-inspiring discourse by a masterful Haida basket weaver, Paula Varnell, weaving tales of tradition and resilience that stirred our souls. With hearts brimming with gratitude, we bid adieu to Skidegate and set sail amidst a tapestry of azure skies and tranquil seas. Over a sumptuous lunch, our voyage to the mystical landscapes of Alaska unfurled, promising new horizons and untold wonders. In the afternoon, esteemed National Geographic Photographer Drew mesmerized us with captivating narratives of wolves, bears, and mountain lions. A vibrant photo breakout session followed as we reviewed pictures of the last week of our adventure. As we sail onward through the Hecate Strait, we chart our course towards Alaska, carrying with us the echoes of Haida wisdom and the promise of new horizons.