Exploring the British Columbian Archipelago’s Most Remote Sacred Site By Marc Cappelletti I am walking in the footsteps of chiefs and carvers, warriors and weavers, shamans and slaves; people as connected to the land as the very trees from which they once made their homes. The ground is soft. It is sacred. And it lies at the edge of the world—Haida Gwaii, British Columbia. We are at the ancient village of SGang Gwaay Llnagaay, formerly known as Nan sdins or Ninstints, on the eastern edge of SGang Gwaay (Anthony Island).
When we, as Canadians, talk about our whole country, we say “from coast to coast to coast.” The three coasts feel very different underfoot. In the west, deep moss makes a trail that feels like walking over sofa cushions; in the east, long grasses swish and slap against your boots; and up north rocks and rivulets form tiled patterns over the permafrost. It was the west coast that convinced me to start working at sea.
Newfoundland’s Gros Morne National Park is one of the few places where you can walk on the Earth’s mantle and also cruise glacially carved freshwater fjords.
In this episode of Expedition Spotlight, join Cultural Specialist Susan Flanagan as she reveals what discoveries are in store on our Canadian Maritimes and Newfoundland expedition.
For the final day of our trip, we anchored off the town of Russell in the north of the country to visit the site where the Waitangi Treaty was signed by both Māori and the British Crown. The timing of our visit was remarkable as just hours after Māori MP Hana-Rawhiti Kareariki Maipi-Clarke tore-up the Indigenous Treaty Principles Bill during a powerful Haka in parliament. The bill ostensibly promises to extend and clarify the treaty. The day began with torrential wind and near-gale winds but ended in glorious sunshine.
Traveling south aboard National Geographic Endurance , we ride the steady rhythm of the following seas toward Antarctica. Albatrosses, prions, and petrels accompany us, their effortless flight a constant presence above the waves. These seabirds, perfectly adapted to the harsh conditions, escort the ship through one of the most remote regions on earth. In the galley, preparations continue as usual, with the occasional clatter of a spatula against a pan punctuating the ship’s daily routines. This small sound offers a sense of normalcy amidst the vast and untamed Southern Ocean. Outside, the air sharpens, and the sea begins to hint at the icy landscapes ahead. As the ship presses on, the anticipation grows. The seabirds continue to follow, a living connection to the wilderness around us. Soon, icebergs will break the horizon, and the familiar blue of the ocean will give way to the stark whites of Antarctica. Each mile south reinforces the sense of entering a world where survival is a delicate balance, and every element of life must adapt to extremes. The journey promises discovery and an encounter with one of the planet’s last frontiers.
Today, National Geographic Quest visited Bahia Huevos and the Platanares Mangrove Forest. Despite the rain, spirits remained high as guests embarked on Zodiac rides through the lush mangrove channels. We had the opportunity to observe a variety of wildlife, including iguanas basking on branches, parrots flying overhead, and numerous bird species such as herons, egrets, and flycatchers. The vibrant ecosystem of the mangroves provided a unique and memorable experience. After returning to the ship, guests gathered in the lounge for cocktail hour, reflecting on the day's adventures. It was a wonderful day immersed in nature.
Today we explored South Plaza and Santa Fe Islands, both in the central part of the archipelago. Marine iguanas were one of the main characters of the day, although sea lions and Galapagos hawks displayed some great moments for photography. I believe today is going to be one of the most memorable days of this trip, as the wildlife and the weather today were on point.
Our day at sea began with the awe-inspiring sight of Antarctica’s vast, icy landscapes. As we awoke, we found ourselves surrounded by towering mountains and glaciers, with Mikkelsen Harbor on the horizon. This small island, just south of Trinity Island, offered an unforgettable landing. We ventured ashore, walking among playful gentoo penguins and encountering four Weddell seals, including an adorable nursing pup. While some soaked in the sights, our undersea specialist, Emmet, captivated us with a fascinating lecture on the Southern Ocean’s currents. After returning aboard, we savored a delicious lunch as we cruised icy waters toward our afternoon destination, the rugged Spert Island. Zodiacs took us on a thrilling exploration of the island’s dramatic coastline where towering cliffs, steep rock faces, and natural rock arches formed a surreal backdrop, all framed by gigantic icebergs in every shape and size. As the day drew to a close, we gathered for our evening recap and briefing, reflecting on the day’s highlights and eagerly anticipating tomorrow’s adventures. It was yet another unforgettable day in the heart of Antarctica, where nature’s raw beauty never fails to amaze.
