Whether it was penguins in Antarctica, monkeys and birds in Costa Rica, or undersea creatures in Belize, our field staff's photos this week reflected astonishing wildlife.
National Geographic Orion returned to New Zealand for the first time since 2014; our staff in Costa Rica and the Galapagos Islands captured incredible wildlife close-ups; and sweeping, ice-filled landscapes greeted guests in Patagonia and Antarctica.
Kayaking on a small ship expedition can be utterly exhilarating or it can be serene and soul-stirring. Get down at water-level for up-close, wild encounters in some of the planet’s most epic places.
An early wake-up announcement from expedition leader Brent had an exciting tone to it. “You must bounce out of bed and come and see this,” he said. “There are hundreds of sooty shearwaters around us.” And so there were! The sky was light with the morning sun, and a countless number of these seabirds, known to the Māori as “titi,” glided effortlessly over the waves. Soon, we spotted the intricate silhouette of North East Island, part of the Snares Island group, where we will cruise on Zodiacs. The stunning weather complemented the spectacular scenery of the Snares. New Zealand sea lions and fur seals rollicked on the rocks and played in the rock pools while dozens of Snares crested penguins left their nests and headed for a morning bath. The penguins timed their swim to the strong swell. They hopped from one rock to another to get as close to the sea as possible, though their timing was not always perfect as they tried to catch a wave. The higher cliffs and other rocky outcrops were filled with Buller’s albatross nests, and hundreds of birds flew around us. The slopes of this low-lying island were covered in Olearia lyallii, a lush tree daisy that creates a great canopy for penguins and songbirds like the Snares tomtit (an endemic black passerine). We explored caves, small coves, and little waterways until it was time to say goodbye to this wilderness and prepare to head home. The traditional Captain’s Farewell Cocktail party had an emotional twist for all of us. It has been an EPIC voyage in all senses as we traveled 14,200 km together through the wilderness of Antarctica and the Sub-Antarctic Islands. We have shared the first month of 2023 together, and it is time to say ‘hasta pronto!’ Safe travels to all our new friends. See you again soon!
Today started with a beautiful sunrise. The early morning was focused on birds, and we spotted a few albatross species on our way to Enderby Island. Enderby Island is part of New Zealand's uninhabited Auckland Islands archipelago, south of mainland New Zealand. Situated just off the northern tip of Auckland Island, it is the largest island in the archipelago. We split into smaller groups for two rounds of Zodiac cruises. Sunny weather and a light breeze offered great conditions to explore. We spotted Hooker’s sea lions, southern giant petrels, pipits, Auckland Island shags, red-crowned parakeets, light-mantled sooty albatrosses, subantarctic skuas, etc. The highlight of the day was a yellow-eyed penguin, a species of penguin endemic to New Zealand. After a light lunch, we went hiking ashore. A boardwalk leads across the entire plateau of Enderby Island, from Sandy Bay Beach to the cliffs on the western coast. We enjoyed absolutely stunning and unusual landscapes that included what looked like peat marshland with very unique flora – rata bushes, gentian flowers, mosses and ferns, and various megaherbs. During evening recap, we reviewed all the bright moments of the day and discussed plans for tomorrow. We finished our day with chats and a delicious dinner at the restaurant.
Today was quite busy with many interesting presentations. In the morning, geologist Serguei Ponomarenko spoke about the geological history of Antarctica. Before glaciation wiped out thousands of species of the animals and plants that used to be here, Antarctica was once connected to Australia, and much earlier, it was connected to Africa, Madagascar, India, and South America. Later, Gerard Baker spoke about conservation efforts in the Southern Ocean. After lunch, National Geographic photographer Michaela Skovranova instructed guests on live editing of photographs, an essential skill after a memorable trip. The last activity before dinner was an Antarctica quiz. In the late afternoon, National Geographic Explorer entered the Beagle Channel. Almost immediately, the wind subsided, and the sky cleared. Guests enjoyed the spectacular scenery on the Chilean and Argentinian sides of the channel. After dinner, the ship docked in Ushuaia, and guests had an opportunity to spend a few late evening hours in this most southern town in the world.
The winds were strong during the night as we set our course for Campbell Island. In the early morning, the captain guided our ship into a narrow bay. Protected from the winds, we made landfall on a cement ramp near a closed research station. An elderly New Zealand sea lion raised his enormous and sleepy head. After a few yawns, he returned to the dreams we woke him from. Along a boardwalk covered in chicken-wire, we encountered some younger sea lions that took a more determined interest in us. Negotiations went well, and we reached a peaceful solution that allowed us to share the boardwalk. Southern rata trees were in bloom, and their spray of red petals decorated the trail. Lichens clung to the tree trunks. Persistent winds groom this island, trimming the trees down to bush size. We ploughed ahead. Alongside the trail, the blossoms of a giant purple daisy had no trouble displaying their beauty. The reward for our breezy jaunt was a look at southern royal albatrosses. Sitting high on Campbell Island, the albatrosses stood and stretched their wings in the blustery blasts. Along the shore, red-billed gulls called to each other as we rode Zodiacs back to National Geographic Endurance .
Waking before the break of dawn, expedition leader Lisle Gwynn made the call that our fearless travelers would Zodiac cruise around the Snares Islands at sunrise before the Southern Ocean winds picked up. Sunrise in this part of the world usually means light penetrating through a dense cover of clouds. However, this morning we were gifted with the most beautiful sunrise most of us have ever seen. With giant rocky pinnacles rising out of the waves and millions of seabirds making their way out to sea, an orange glow set the backdrop for some beautiful images. As we cruised around the Snares in Zodiacs, the sun was still low and pink hues filled the sky. We witnessed Buller’s albatrosses dynamically soaring through the sky, feeding on baitfish below the surface, and taking off with all their might as they ran across the waves. Albatrosses weren’t the only birds putting on a show. Thousands of Cape and diving petrels sat on the surface near giant patches of bull kelp, feeding and diving for food. Many came to the Sub-Antarctic Islands to see penguins, and today didn’t disappoint. Endemic Snares crested penguins joined thousands of birds on the surface of the ocean, forming rafts before diving for fish. Passing these rafts of seabirds, we hoisted the Zodiacs back on board after what was one of the most memorable Zodiac rides for guests and staff alike.
