Yankee Harbor, 12/17/2024, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
Despite the wind and the swells, our first landing in Yankee Harbor was absolutely fantastic. We saw the gentoo penguin colony, whalers’ and sealers’ artifacts, and at least 15 elephant seals fighting and having their well-deserved naps.
We spent the afternoon cruising on board National Geographic Explorer, admiring Edinburgh Hill and learning from our naturalists about the wonders of the Antarctic Continent.
Maria Intxaustegi is an internationally awarded maritime archaeologist, naval historian, commercial diver, professional offshore sailor, and expedition guide from the Basque Country.
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The phrase, “Red sky at night, sailors delight…” was an accurate forecast for today (sunset last night at Lemaire Channel was stunning). With calm, sunny, high wispy clouds, and cragged peaks emerging from thick blankets of highly sculptured and absolutely white snow, Paradise Bay was indeed a paradise. After breakfast, we kayaked among growlers, bergy bits, and small icebergs, enjoying the stunning vistas and observing the ubiquitous gentoo penguins and several Weddell seals lounging on ice floes. Just before lunch, some of us participated in the time-honored tradition of the Polar Plunge and received a coveted patch attesting to getting really cold and wet. During lunch, we sailed to Danco Island for hikes around the gentoo colony and Zodiac tours through the ice fields. The penguins provided endless amusement as they constantly stole rocks from each other’s nests. A few eggshells were observed, suggesting that at least a few Gentoos had laid eggs, but lost them to the ever-watchful skuas. While the hikers were on shore and the Zodiacs were cruising, six humpback whales spent the afternoon circling National Geographic Explorer, presumably feeding. The blows were close and loud, and at least one mom-calf pair was sighted. It was a spectacular day!
Orne Harbor is a well-protected bay on the west coast of Graham Land on the Antarctic Peninsula. Discovered by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition in 1898, it is a perfect place for Zodiac cruises and walks. Stepping ashore here, we are not on an island but on the Antarctic Continent proper. Adventurous hikers made the trek to the top of the hill to enjoy a beautiful scene below. Cruisers saw plenty of gentoo and chinstrap penguins and…HUMPBACK WHALES. The scenery was sublime. On the way to Börgen Bay we encountered orcas, who visited long enough for everyone to watch, photograph, and enjoy. We continued through the Neumayer Channel, my personal favorite for the most beautiful passage in this part of the world. We ended in Börgen Bay, set into Anders Island. Zodiacs were lowered enabling us to explore icebergs and our beautiful surroundings. But the day was not over yet! After dinner, National Geographic Explorer traversed the famous and spectacularly scenic Lemaire Channel. It was a wonderful ending to a wonderful day.
