Whaler’s Bay (Deception Island) and Half Moon Island, 12/26/2023, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Antarctica
The last full day of our expedition brought us to the surreal Whaler’s Bay at Deception Island. The only way to access this historical site is through the narrow Neptune’s Bellows, which brought us into a caldera volcano that is still active. It last erupted in 1970.
In the afternoon, we arrived at Half Moon Island, where a colony of chinstrap penguins welcomed us as we hiked to an Argentine research station.
Amy Brummit has spent several seasons supporting science in Antarctica at all three United States research bases - McMurdo Station, Palmer Station and the Amundsen-Scott South Pole Station. These experiences include “wintering” at McMurdo Station whe...
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We were in our Zodiacs by 7:30am for a last excursion through the swell and ice of Spert Island and Farewell Rock. Between basalt cliffs, grounded icebergs, and clear turquoise waves, this landscape was one of the most dramatic we have seen. It was also our first opportunity to visit a chinstrap penguin colony. This adventure was under our belts by 9am and we had the rest of the day for brunch, rest, an art tour, waffles for teatime, a presentation by our National Geographic photographer, and our final recap.
As the early breakfast started at 0630, National Geographic Endurance arrived west of Booth Island. We navigated among icebergs towering larger than the ship, and the landscape was otherworldly. We got in our Zodiacs and stepped ashore on Hovgaard Island. We spent the morning walking across the snow-covered island and the views were incredible. When back aboard, the ship continued south through the Penola Strait, to the Argentine Islands. We were going to the Vernadsky Station! You could not imagine a warmer welcome than that which we received from the base personnel. They showed us around and spoke about life at the station and about some of the research they’re conducting. As we continued to explore, we enjoyed the natural history and incredible wildlife until it was time to return to National Geographic Endurance. After dinner we sailed through the stunning Lemaire Channel.
Last night, we said goodbye to the Antarctic Circle and awoke to the sounds of our expedition leader’s ukulele just north of the 66.33-degree boundary. Our morning at sea began with lessons on Earth’s icebox and photography by the very talented expedition staff. On our journey, we navigated through chunks of sea ice and glacial icebergs, ranging from bits to gigantic towers. As the ship met ice, long cracks snaked through the white sheets and loud rumbles broke the silence. Eventually we settled next to a beautiful black mountain under a moody sky. We had arrived at the Fish Islands. From the bridge, we got a glimpse of the fun in store…Adélie and shag nests scattered on the exposed rock on the islands! After a delicious Mexican buffet, we were ready to explore. With the help of the Zodiacs, we witnessed the life of the Adélies (and two gentoos) up close. They are quite the characters. Research has shown that they steal pebbles- a hot commodity- from most nests in the colony. Just when we thought our day couldn’t get any more exciting, three friendly humpback whales breached right off the bow. We watched them feed and listened to them whistle as the sun slowly turned an Antarctic winter orange.
