We woke to cloudy, misty skies, but this did not deter the enthusiasm of folks keen to get outdoors. Bushwhackers left on their three-hour-tour. They were amped for what they would find ashore. Casual and moderate hikers knew they were in for a good nature session along the tideline and into the forest along the edges of Security Bay. The kayakers kept it real and spent some time up close and personal with the watery world surrounding the ship. Each guest brought back stories of adventures as we sailed north in search of the bubble-netters. After a presentation by Jeff about the charismatic marine mammals we call humpbacks, we were finally treated to an excellent few sessions of whale watching, including some tail thrashing and bubble-net feeding. After dinner, a brown bear upstaged a few whales feeding very close to the ship. Despite the fine misty rain that came and went throughout the day, or perhaps enhanced by it, new sights and sounds added layer after layer to our already diverse list of experiences on the voyage thus far.
9/9/2023
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National Geographic Quest
Ushk Bay
Morning fog swallowed the Southeast Alaskan wilderness. As we cruised into Ushk Bay, anticipation seized the vessel. This morning’s hikes and Zodiac cruises were to be our final operations of the trip; every last one of us was eager to be ensconced in the wonders of the Tongass once again. Following a delicious breakfast — prepared by head chef Paul Cotta and his dedicated team — we set out for shore. Through a light rain we cruised on Zodiacs toward our landing, scattering bald eagles and common mergansers that had congregated along the shore. Ushk Bay’s annual salmon run was nearing its conclusion —and we could smell it. The shoreline was littered with rotting carcasses of pink and chum salmon, many of which were picked apart by corvids, gulls, and bears. Whether or not any of these individuals survived long enough to spawn is a mystery, but there is one certainty amidst this carnage — their sacrifice is not in vain. Their carcasses will enrich this place, injecting the forest with nutrients from the sea. Our last afternoon was spent cruising toward our anchorage near Sitka. The final day of a Lindblad Expeditions cruise is always a hard day. We have all forged new bonds in the fires of wilderness. Every one of us has found ourselves challenged and rewarded, humbled and humored, inspired and inspirational throughout this week. Our new bonds will, thanks to modern technology, be preserved in photographs and videos. Many will be carried on through photos and emails, but this group will never be reconstituted. Though it’s hard to say goodbye, the impermanence of this troupe makes the experience all the more poignant. These adventurers will surely be missed.
