Yesterday we left the continental mainland of Africa and today began with the excitement and anticipation of approaching a remote island in the Gulf Guinea. I am not entirely sure why arriving by ship at an island should feel so different than arriving in a new country via a continental port, or arriving by airplane at an airport. Perhaps it is because this is how humans have travelled to islands for millennia? As we approached the island and the sun came up, the dark mass on the horizon revealed itself to be a mountainous and forested tropical island.
While only a little over a hundred miles off the coast of Gabon, and a short overnight steam from Libreville, the contrast between the countries is vast. The main city of São Tomé has to be the laid-back capital city in Africa. There is little traffic, few large buildings and the people are happy and smiling, with the concept of leve leve – “take it easy” – defining the national psyche.
The contrast in location was further underscored by a Zodiac disembarkation to go ashore. No industrial port for us here, but a landing at a small dock in the well maintained grounds of one of the local hotels. Once ashore, a variety of options sent groups in different directions to explore as much of what São Tomé has to offer as possible.
Impressions from the day were many and varied, from sandy beaches to lush tropical forests filled with endemic birds. From the slowly decaying plantation houses reflecting on the days when slaves worked the land to the modern plantations producing high quality products of coffee and cacao. By evening we were able to reflect on these impressions, and many more, while being entertained by the local band Grupo Tempo.
