We have had yet another very busy and very fulfilling day in Las Islas Encantadas! This morning we awoke to find we were anchored among yachts and ships of all sizes in Academy Bay off Santa Cruz Island. Along the shore were the houses, hotels and buildings of the town of Puerto Ayora, home of over 20,000 inhabitants. It is also the headquarters of both the Charles Darwin Research Station and the Galapagos National Park. After a delicious buffet breakfast we boarded our fleet of Zodiacs and motored into the main town dock. A short bus ride took us to the entrance of the station and park and we followed our naturalists inland along a winding cobbled road.
We visited the captive tortoise breeding center where our guides Jonathan, Gaby and Fernando told us about the extremely successful breeding and repatriation project that has saved several species of giant tortoises from the brink of extinction. Of particular interest was the story we heard of how the 15 adult tortoises that were brought to the Island of Santa Cruz from Española have produced over 2000 baby tortoises in captivity and these have been released back into the wild on Española. The tortoises were being fed this morning and we marveled as we watched these slow reptiles crunching on fat green stems and leaves. Gaby pointed out a pale gray tree finch and a long beaked cactus finch and we saw a couple land iguanas that are part of an iguana breeding program.
After our guided visit we had a chance to stroll through town on our own. Some of us shopped while others took photographs or just enjoyed the walk on this lovely, sunny, but breezy day. The coastal road was lined with small boutiques displaying their bright souvenirs and we were pleased to find that the town was quaint and friendly. We enjoyed watching pelicans and fat, lazy sea lions vying for scraps at the fish market.
We gathered for a cold glass of juice at The Rock Café and then went by bus to the family run “El Trapiche” farm where they showed us how coffee and sugar cane is processed. We tasted and tested the resulting products: strong aromatic coffee, sweet freshly pressed sugar cane juice and fiery sugar cane liquor before heading by bus to Narwhal restaurant for lunch.
After a hearty grilled chicken lunch we visited a highlands farm on the southwestern slopes of Santa Cruz where tortoises grazed, rested and strolled in lush pastures. Some of the males were HUGE! A half dozen were contentedly soaking in a muddy pool. Some of the largest individuals were no doubt over a hundred years old and every one of us thoroughly enjoyed watching them as they went about their normal behaviors in their natural habitat.
Back on board we were treated to a talk about tortoise movements in the highlands by Dr. Steve Blake. After our dinner buffet the folkloric group EcoArte played music and danced for our entertainment and then we all went off wearily - but happily - to bed.
