In the flooded forests of the Amazon reflections are everywhere, giving rise to the name the Mirror Forest. Floating quietly in the skiffs with outboard engines off, we listen closely to the sounds of the forest. The boisterous calls of macaws in the far distance, parrots, and parakeets in the top of a nearby tree, the high-pitched squeaks of squirrel monkeys.

The blackwater tributaries and oxbow lakes of Río Zapote lead us deeper. There is something to discover around every bend, and the forest has one last surprise for us. Leaping between the branches in the sleek and rarely seen tayra, a small omnivorous mammal in the weasel family. Trying to get an image of this swift moving creature is a reminder of the challenges of photography in the rain forest—set your ISO at 1600 or higher, use a single point focus to get beyond leaves and branches in the foreground, and over-expose when shooting against the bright sky. Easier said than done when in the moment.

A family in a dugout canoe hides in the shade, their village flooded with nowhere to walk. The waters are still rising, and will be for the next couple of months. Imagine, being flooded each year and welcoming the water. Their culture is rich in tradition handed down through the generations. The river and forest provides everything they need. They eat fresh fish daily, fruit of the season, and breathe some of the cleanest air on the planet. Plants provide medicine.

Reflecting back on our experience exploring the Marañon and Ucalayi Rivers, it’s hard to believe the week is already over. We will be forever changed by the experience. No longer is the Amazon Basin a blank spot on the map, but the concept of scale still challenges the imagination—a flood plain stretching from Maine to Colorado. Leaving the wildness of the Amazon River will no doubt require time to adjust back to our world of Amazon.com, Whole Foods, and fast cars crossing dry land. Re-entry will come with gratitude for all we have and enjoy.

As we head back to the Delfin II in the skiffs after dark, we keep looking and hoping for a jaguar. There is still so much more to discover…