As the famous Meltemi winds stormed down the Aegean Sea, expedition leader John Frick changed our course for the sheltered waters of mainland Peloponnesus. Our adaptable guides introduced us to the city of Nafplio, an Ottoman stronghold won by the Greeks in the War of Independence. Nafplio served as the first modern Greek capital from 1829–1834. Guests made the most of their morning excursion in Nafplio, which featured a walking tour, an optional 999-step ascent to the Fortress of Palamidi, and some generous servings at the local world class gelato shop.