On our first full day of the expedition, we were off the southern coast of Italy. After a wonderful breakfast, our captain described the step-by-step process of unfurling and setting of the sails on the magnificent Sea Cloud, all while it was happening in real-time. Every single sail was displayed for our enjoyment. As icing on the cake, this was immediately followed by a photo safari by Zodiacs to take photos of the magnificent ship under sail.
In the afternoon we arrived at the little port town of Agropoli, where guides awaited with coaches for a short drive to the ruins of Paestum, famous for its three ancient Greek temples from around 550 to 450 BC. It was a beautiful sunny day, perfect for a walk through the extensive open gardens while our guides and historians onboard described in detail the place. A perfect day! A very promising trip ahead of us!
Nicknamed “Indio” (Indian) because of his powers of observation and quiet nature, José has almost two decades of experience working as a naturalist and photography guide; as well as being recognized as an expert birder and nature photographer in Cost...
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Today we awoke to a full moon glimmering over the water as we headed toward the port of Amalfi — situated on the south side of the Sorrentine peninsula that separates the Gulf of Naples from the Gulf of Salerno. This stretch of southern Italy is characterized by spectacular limestone cliffs, valleys, and ravines which plunge into the sea. The natural beauty of the Amalfi Coast has made it a popular destination for European travelers since the 18th century. Like much of the Mediterranean coastline, Amalfi has a long history of settlement. There are remains of Roman-era villas in the area, and it was within the Duchy of Naples during the Byzantine period. Eventually, Amalfi became an independent republic ruled by merchant families who controlled the maritime trade routes across the Mediterranean in the 9th and 10th centuries. Amalfi was the early leader in a trade war that would later be dominated by the likes of Pisa and Venice. We went ashore for a walking tour through the old town, which is bordered on either side by sheer cliffs. Many narrow alleyways wind throughout the town beneath multistory buildings. Many staircases emanate from the central valley up toward residences built high above — Amalfi is truly mountain goat territory. We visited Saint Andrew’s Cathedral, a stunning example of Norman-Arab-Byzantine architecture which features a crypt with many colored marbles and beautiful frescoes. After returning to the Sea Cloud we were treated to a hearty meal of Italian cuisine — local seafood and the pasta wheel! We raised anchor and cruised along the coastline to the amazing Isle of Capri. In the evening we enjoyed the farewell cocktail hour, guest slideshow, and capped everything off with the Captain’s Farewell Dinner.
Sea Cloud arrived alongside the small cruise terminal at Salerno shortly after sunrise. Our expedition leader gave the morning announcement to rouse the guests: we would depart after breakfast for the much-anticipated visit to Pompeii. Our coaches took us up and over the steep hills behind Salerno, and in just a half-hour we found ourselves at the entrance of the vast archaeological site. It was immediately clear that we were not the only visitors to Pompeii today. Our guides deftly moved our groups into the remains of the ancient port city, destroyed by the eruption of Vesuvius on that fateful August day in 79 AD. We entered the city gates and arrived in the gymnasium where gladiators were known to have trained. Adjacent to this, we viewed the well-preserved remains of an odeon and much larger theater. From there, our guides made judicious choices of which roads, shops, houses, and baths to visit; they gave us the full experience of the city while avoiding the many other visitors to the site. It was only toward the end of the visit that we really joined the throngs — but this made sense as we were in the forum, the gathering spot of the ancient city. Thrilled and tired, we returned to Sea Cloud and enjoyed another wonderful buffet lunch. Later we met our local guides again, this time for a low-key walking tour of Salerno. This was a much different perspective on Italian cities than we received in the affluent and rarefied Taormina and Syracuse. Rather, we could appreciate the everyday life of Salerno’s inhabitants as we wandered the narrow alleyways and roads of the city’s medieval center. The interior courtyard of the Duomo and its decorative colored stonework was the endpoint of the guided tour. From there, guests continued to explore on their own; some returned to the ship, while others continued wandering the area. Three adventuresome guests joined staff members David and Jess in climbing up the pine-covered hill behind the city to reach the castle ruins overlooking Salerno. We sailed at 18:00 in search of the perfect sunset at the tip of the Amalfi Peninsula — and during our cocktail hour we found it. Afterwards we sat for a beautiful set-table dinner on deck. The evening was not over, as we then enjoyed the rousing salty songs of the famed Sea Cloud Sea Shanty Singers. Guests and crew together joined in the customary party, and danced late into the evening!
The Sea Cloud was a lively ship this morning, full of activity and excitement. To start the day, the Captain sent the crew aloft and every sail on the Sea Cloud was set. Gentle wind conditions allowed us to take Zodiac photo safaris around the ship and photograph the majestic vessel under full sail from the water line. The calm seas also enabled a refreshing impromptu morning swim from the ship. Back on board, historian David Brotherson gave a presentation about daily life in Pompeii in preparation for our visit tomorrow. In the afternoon we travelled inland through the countryside to visit the ancient city of Paestum. Founded in the early 6th century, here three major Greek temples are still intact; this is especially remarkable considering they are in an earthquake zone. We also visited a small museum renowned for its exquisite collection of painted tombs. Back on board the ship, expedition leader John Frick treated us to a presentation on the fascinating history of the Sea Cloud followed by a tour of the original owners’ cabins.
