As National Geographic Explorer continued to sail into the New Year here in Antarctica, we arrived at James Ross Island. The beach was laden with ice, and we hiked into the epic landscape. On our way through the Erebus and Terror Gulf, we encountered a pod of killer whales in the middle of a hunt for penguins. We then arrived at Devil Island. Aboard our flotilla of Zodiacs, we toured the coastline to observe Adelie penguins. The sights, sounds, and smells of the colony were memorable.
12/4/2023
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National Geographic Explorer
Cierva Cove, Antarctica
After an overnight transit from Brown Bluff, we awoke in Cierva Cove to cloudy but absolutely calm conditions. We were surrounded by surreal sculptures of ice, both floating and on land. Two large glaciers, Breguet and Gregory, provide the numerous icebergs, bergy bits, growlers, and brash ice that floated serenely in the cove. Morning operations had half of us on Zodiac cruises with the other half remaining on board for an excursion through the dense brash ice (which cannot be entered by Zodiacs) near the two glaciers. The roles were reversed midmorning. The most enthralling aspect of both ops was the silent majesty of ice and snow. Two small calving events of a floating iceberg were observed while we enjoyed Zodiac cruising, along with one small leopard seal, a few gentoo penguins, and an assortment of terns and petrels. But the most exciting aspect of the morning was just reinforcing and appreciating our sense of place as we cruised among icebergs in an absolutely calm Antarctic cove. Following lunch, several guests ventured into the cove with double kayaks, while the rest enjoyed the scenery (or a good book) on board. As it happened, the calm and warmish conditions that existed all morning changed to brisk and blustery winds that fueled choppy waves and an accumulation of brash ice as we got into the kayaks. An hour in a kayak under these conditions is challenging, but it is an exciting part of the Antarctic experience, one that will be remembered and relived often to family and friends. Just before cocktail hour, a pair of humpback whales surfaced within 30 yards of National Geographic Explorer . The ship stopped, and the whales peacefully dove and surfaced in front of numerous cameras for about twenty minutes. Several photos of the underside of the flukes were taken, perhaps allowing the whales to be identified. And so ended another unique day in Antarctica. More adventures tomorrow!
