As the sun rose this morning and the air cleared, we realized that massive shield volcanoes surrounded us. The western part of Isabela gives us a clear idea of how these volcanic islands were formed, as there are recent flows visible everywhere. We started our exploration of this new land at Urbina Bay, where the terrain was uplifted in 1954 out of the tidal zone due to violent volcanic action. We find remnants underfoot of the seafloor as we encounter giant tortoises, land iguanas, and a plethora of Darwin finches. The afternoon gave us a history lesson as we walked in Darwin’s footsteps at Tagus Cove, gaining an incredible view of the hundred-mile long island of Isabela. We explored every detail of this area, land and sea, as we snorkeled with Galapagos penguins, marine iguanas, and Pacific green sea turtles, and kayaked below the massive tuff cones of the coastal area. We returned to the ship just as the sun burned a warm glow into the land as it dipped into the ether.
10/4/2024
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National Geographic Endeavour II
Genovesa Island
With coffee in hand, I stepped out onto the front balcony of the lounge to see what was going on. We had just entered Darwin’s Bay, dropped anchor, and the juvenile red-footed boobies had found the ship and were flying around us on an inspection tour. The rest of the day continued with discoveries of all kinds. An early morning inversion layer (locally known as “garúa”) had fallen and dampened the environment with much desired drops of fresh water, although the chicks of various species didn’t appear terribly pleased in having wet feathers. On our return, the same bedraggled individuals looked smooth, sleek and dry once the sun had come out. The Galapagos National Park has only two sites for visitors, both spectacular, both well worth a slow walk among the palo santo trees to see the great frigatebirds, red-footed boobies, Nazca boobies, Galapagos doves, Darwin’s finches, short-eared owls, and storm petrels. Snorkeling, kayaking, and paddleboarding along the base of the cliffs of Darwin’s Bay followed. There’s nothing quite like this island anywhere in the world.