San Marcos Island, and the search for Sperm Whales

After a short and bumpy nocturnal navigation in a southerly direction, the Sea Voyager reached San Marcos, a volcanic island with numerous marine sediments and terraces that show why there has been, for a long time, an intensive gypsum mining. We hiked on a beautiful arroyo and discovered the edible, kiwi-tasting fruits of the old man cactus, one of the most common species of this plant family in Baja California. Moreover, we enjoyed the concert of chicks’ voices from ospreys, gnatcatchers and great blue herons that were actively demanding food into their guts. And, as a corollary for a delightful morning, almost everybody enjoyed long, refreshing and relaxing kayaking and snorkeling from the gorgeous sandy beach.

Before lunch we pulled up anchor with the firm intention of looking for, and finding, marine mammals. Our plan was to spend the afternoon navigating in the deep waters around Tortuga Island, a giant shield volcano that rises from the bottom of the Sea of Cortez. It did not take to long to localize many oblique blows that resulted in sperm whales. In fact, scattered individuals, as well as a big group of at least 11 animals, were around and close to our ship. Among the big group there was a newborn calf, a fact derived from its tiny size. Some of these individuals were just logging at the surface, others were swimming and blowing randomly, and some more were cruising slowly. The group was more active and probably feeding, and later a pod of bottlenose dolphins joined them and traveled together. Our National Geographic/Lindblad Expeditions critter cam team was sent to try the attachment of this device. Also, our Undersea Specialists took a Zodiac in order to obtain some video footage.

Suddenly, everybody aboard the Sea Voyager noticed some animals approaching the bow. With blows and powerful strokes of its big fluke, an intimidating male crossed from one side of the ship to the other, and a long “aaahhhhh!” came from all mouths as the animal fluked and sank into the obscure water.