San Esteban and San Pedro Martir Islands

This morning we reached the eastern side of the remarkable and long-time isolated island San Esteban, home of several endemic cacti, and of the famous piebald, or “pinto” chuckwalla. During our hikes to the arroyo we had to avoid any disturbance to the numerous yellow-footed gulls that were nesting right on the pebbled beach. In fact, several broken eggs, as well as some well-grown chicks looking for shade, were seen in the vicinity. As we entered into the wide arroyo, our Naturalist began the search for the fascinating reptiles. Hidden under the bushy and spiny branches of the jumping chollas, or under big rocks, or just lying next to a galloping cactus stem, as many as 13 chuckwallas were seen this morning. They were well fed and big, but some were lacking toes because of the highly territorial behavior that makes them fight and mutilate each other. Also, but unexpectedly, as many as a dozen spiny-tailed iguanas were found overlapping territories with chuckwallas. Individuals of all ages belonging to this species (see photo), called “iguana negra” or “garrobo” in different parts of the mainland of Mexico, were observed basking under the sun to begin the daily search for food consisting in plant parts, like flowers and fruits, and apparently baby chuckwallas.

After leaving San Esteban we concentrated efforts to find marine mammals. In the early afternoon we found sperm whales and bottlenose dolphins, and the Sea Voyager stayed with them for a time. A zodiac with our Undersea Specialists was sent to get some undersea footage, and they got an impressive but short video showing these gentle giants and the acrobatic dolphins sliding softly into the ocean.

We finally reached San Pedro Martir, another isolated and remote volcanic island formed by the extrusion of magma from the mantle through a long-ago extinct composite volcano, now destroyed by erosion and covered by layers and layers of ash and scoria. We took Zodiac cruises around, observing thousands of nesting pelicans and blue-footed boobies, plus the magnificent red-billed tropicbirds. The scenery crowned the end of our voyage through the fascinating Sea of Cortez.