Lake Eva and Hood Bay

Distinct imprints in the mud and a trail of fresh scat provided good clues. Spotting two brown bears on the water’s edge this morning offered even stronger evidence. We’re in Bear Country now. At our anchorage this morning in Hanus Bay, we lowered Zodiacs and kayaks in search of even more, with yet another day of magnificent blue skies. On a long hike to Lake Eva, our most ambitious walkers traversed a slightly muddy pass under the dense canopy of a beautiful rain forest, viewing giant devil’s club, vibrant marsh marigold and even the elusive Indian paintbrush. We also spotted the cornis canidensus, the Canadian dogwood, reminding many of us of the tree from lower latitudes. Winter wrens sang accompaniment to our “Yo! Bear!” calls, as we announced our presence to the locals. Our medium and short hikes both explored a pristine stream, hosting waterfalls, summertime salmon runs and shallows – that some of our walkers experienced first hand, after getting out of their Zodiac to help the Bosun pull it into deeper water. Our kayakers also explored the stream with possibly less struggle, viewing eagles and mergansers while experiencing the serenity of a self-propelled effort.

In the afternoon, we cruised into Chatham Straight, in search of more wildlife. A solitary humpback greeted us with a regular cadence of spouts and dives. He was a sleek mass of silvery grey, until a final flick of his fluke revealed the white underside of his tail. Cruising further into the straight, Dall’s porpoises joined the Sea Bird, bow-riding in the afternoon sun.

We made a turn into Hood Bay in the late afternoon, scanning the coastline for more signs of bear life. Our efforts were rewarded, and we soon had binoculars glued to our eyes, observing a brown bear on the rocky shore. Several different sightings filled the early evening, and we retired to dinner in high spirits after a full and glorious day.