Fox Creek & Inian Islands
The National Geographic Sea Lion continued her journey north, entering Icy Strait in the early morning hours. This body of water is another stretch in Southeast Alaska frequented by Humpback whales...and true to the good luck of this voyage, whales were spotted early this morning and they were in fine form! The National Geographic Sea Lion was surrounded with whales, blowing, diving and returning to the surface often with a deep trumpet out-pouring and intake of air. This area is rich in marine mammal life. Not only whales but Sea otters and Harbor porpoise were also at home, moving gracefully through the calm waters. Just as our expedition leader made a move to announce the day’s activities and the hotel manager picked up a microphone to announce breakfast, a juvenile whale began a series of breeches! So began our third day exploring Southeast Alaska. Our first stop this morning was on the northern tip of Chichagof Island at a place called Fox Creek. We would be hiking along another salmon river, then Zodiacs would ferry anyone interested in kayaking across the Idaho Inlet to Shaw Island, a tiny cupcake of an island ideal for a small circumnavigation by kayak.
Hikers divided into groups and headed out along the beach and into a series of meadows all filled with wild flowers! The spring and early summer was late to Southeast Alaska and this brought out a nice diversity of species of flowers; all characteristic of the long 19 hours of light, intense but short growing season at this northern latitude. Once inside the tall Beach rye grass, Fire weed, Cow parsnip the Brown bear trail opened into a small meadow filled with the scent and sight of Bog orchids. Following these same bear trails we headed towards the outskirts of the forest. Along the way several large and beautiful Brown bear footprints were clearing left in the mud...reminding us all that we were about to enter the Fortress of the Bear! Inside the forest the network of trails continued providing many choices for a deeper walk into a world dominated by the canopies of a temperate rain forest and its inhabitants. After a discussion about squirrel middens a lovely Red squirrel climbed onto a low limb to enjoy yet another Spruce cone pulling each scale away to reach inside for a tiny but nutritional seed...over and over and over. So intent upon his task, our presence was unnoticed providing not only great photos but the experience of being present and watching a Red squirrel make its daily living.
Meanwhile kayakers rounded Shaw Island enjoying the quiet of being on the sea with close encounters of several Sea otters and the joy of hearing the breath of whales carrying across the water.
Returning to the National Geographic Sea Lion for a lovely warm lunch was a welcome retreat, as a light Alaskan rain had begun to fall. Our ship repositioned to Cross Sound and the Inian Islands. These islands mark the northern entrance of all tidal waters coming from the Pacific Ocean and entering the waters of Northern Southeast Alaska. Tidal waters ranging from 15 to 21 feet come pouring into and through the Inian Islands every 6 hours each day, creating tidal rips, whirlpools and sometimes enormous standing waves. We were beginning our Zodiac tours as the flood or incoming tide was moving towards max-full tide. Those same huge tidal changes also carry very rich nutrients into the waters of Southeast Alaska drawing many, many predators all hoping for a full meal. Steller sea lions, Sea otters, Bald eagles and many other birds were there to hunt or catch the leftovers from the larger predators. As the afternoon moved towards evening the rain continued to come in off of the Pacific Ocean, creating an evening of grey on grey with shades of dark green. The National Geographic Sea Lion remained in Icy Straits under escort by several groups of Humpback whales...a constant reminder of the rich diversity of this place called the land of a thousand islands...Southeast Alaska.
