From the National Geographic Explorer in the Arctic, 8/11/2011, National Geographic Explorer
Aboard the
National Geographic Explorer
Arctic
Murmansk
By 7:30 am this morning we had calm seas and grey overcast skies and a temp of 45F. We then entered the mouth of the Kola Peninsula on our way to Murmansk. We passed by fishing boats, which surrounded National Geographic Explorer. Also we were able to see nuclear submarines, many guests commented on this extraordinary event having lived through the cold war themselves. The vegetation on land covered the hills in a green color, but we could see that this is the end of the northern hemisphere summer. During the night we had made good speed so we entered the pilot station earlier than expected. The reason for our second visit was to clear from Russia after visiting Franz Joseph Land. As we passed along the fjord we could see many examples of soviet architecture as we took two hours to make our way with the pilot to the berth in Murmansk, all the while witnessing the Rowan trees along the shore with antennae and navigation aids as well. Along the shores there were more and more merchant vessels and ice breakers. As we went alongside the pier the rain continued to pour down, which was similar to the weather to our first visit.
The short bus trip to downtown Murmansk offered us a few hours to shop for souvenirs and walk around and get an impression of a city and Russian people in transition. From a closed communist country to a capitalist society in just 20 years. New shops, colorful advertising, lots of fresh vegetable from exotic locals, designer brand clothing from Europe, lots of foreign cars: BMW’s, Fiat, Mercedes to name a few. These were just a few of the new things for me as a visitor back in the eighties. This is a very interesting time to visit an ice free port that lies north to the Arctic Circle; a place in transition. After clearing out of Russia, we steamed north full speed back into the Barents’s Sea. Heading for another visit to Spitsbergen Island. A journey that will take about 48 hours.
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Steaming along the skerries and fjords of Norway it’s easy to understand why the sea has had such a grasp on the culture. We wove through thousands of islands dotted with seasonal and permanent settlements. Many coastal Norwegians make their living off the sea: whether by fishing, farming salmon, caring for eider ducks, or tourism, the ocean’s bounty is before the mariners. We spotted Smøla Island on the horizon as the day began. Each one of these island villages has a unique culture and beauty to share, and we were eager to explore. Via Zodiac we crossed winding channels to land, where we boarded coaches en route to Veiholmen. This idyllic community is centered around a boat-filled harbor. The sculptures, boats, and tools of fishing around town all highlighted the relationship the people have with the sea. Our local guides shared many a story about the region and took us to beautiful corners of Veiholmen. Young gulls begged and squabbled about the flower-decorated lawns, a perfect combination of natural and crafted beauty. In the distance the wind farms churned. Notably, several of these turbines had black blades. An ongoing study since 2020 has shown that this change reduces mortality in birds by up to 70%. In a local museum we peeked through relics of the area, accented by the Hall of Fame: a series of posters showing high-profile musicians who have visited. A local cafe gracefully opened early for us where we enjoyed warm beverages and incredible pastries. Having such a warm welcome in a far-off land was well-received; the people of Norway sharing their culture with us was a greatly appreciated gift. Upon returning to the ship, we set our sights south. Gannets soared along a white-capped ocean as our natural history staff gave presentations about the region. As our voyage crept toward its end we were immersed in the beauty of Norway and the special experiences it gifted to us.
The day started with a visit to the beautiful island of Vega. For thousands of years the people of the island have been living off what the sea provides, and it remains a major part of island life. The Vega archipelago consists of about 6700 islands, and eider ducks have come here for hundreds of years. Villagers built small houses for the eiders to protect them, and they keep the island free from foxes and other predators. This allows the eiders to nest peacefully while providing the people of the island with eider down, worth more than its weight in gold. The down is harvested each year, and as long as the eiders feel safe, they will keep returning. Because of this it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and there is a fantastic museum describing the island’s way of life. Goats were grazing around the site of the museum — much more efficient and environmentally-friendly than any grass clipper or Roomba! Our guide took us through the lush and beautiful landscape while sheep roamed around; the area was covered by colorful flowers and the air was full of bird song. Back at the museum we were treated to the mandatory Norwegian waffle and a guided tour — and of course our guests needed to take the eider down test! The afternoon was spent cruising and listening to interesting lectures. We learned from our naturalist Steve as well as our visiting scientist Rachel from the Rozalia Project; they educated us further about microplastics and the sampling they have been doing throughout this expedition. But the highlight of the day was the evening! The hotel team served us a wonderful Filipino buffet, followed by an ever-so-amazing show by our talented crew, and the night is not over yet!
Our voyage of discovery of Norway’s famous fjords continued today with kayaking and Zodiac cruising in Melfjord and a visit to the picturesque island of Traena, located on the Arctic Circle. A misty, atmospheric morning opened to reveal intertidal organisms, seabirds, seals, waterfalls, and a glaciated landscape in calm fjord waters beneath sheer rock walls. On Traena, we visited a globe monument to the Arctic Circle, a local museum, a quaint chapel, the local pub where we were treated to homemade fishcakes, and the small wooden community church where we enjoyed a piano recital by local talent. Below, two of our Grosvenor Teacher Fellows reflect on their impressions of our voyage and how their experiences might influence their teaching practices. Bradley Quentin, Grosvenor Teacher Fellow, writes… I’m here for the weather. Our first day out of Longyearbyen greeted us with cloudless cerulean skies, cobalt blue seas, and rocky black slopes streaked with gleaming snow patches. A few days later, we arrived in the Seven Islands. Dark hills scraped against low, leaden clouds while luminous white and blue slabs of ice drifted in black waters. We have had bone-chilling winds and fogs that obliterated the line between sea and sky as National Geographic Endurance crunched its way through the frozen ocean. Deep in Tysfjorden, we hiked through a riot of wildflowers and bees with warm sun on our shoulders. This morning, we entered Melfjord. It was overcast with ragged bits of cloud clinging to the steep sides of the fjord. From time to time, the clouds parted briefly to reveal dark peaks brooding over the silvery gray waters. After breakfast, kayaks were deployed, and we set out across the glassy surface in a gentle mist to explore the little islands where we had stopped. Gulls, common terns, and oystercatchers flew this way and that. The terns nesting on one of the islands raised a terrific racket when the gulls got too close. The combination of remarkably clear water and gray skies allowed us to look into the depths, where we spied sea stars in shades of red and purple. Innumerable sea urchins lay among large clumps of brown kelp and heaps of black mussels. On this expedition, we have encountered all kinds of weather. Whether it is clear and cold or gray and rainy, the weather is an important part of each day’s story. It seems to me that the Arctic landscapes, more than most, look and feel dramatically different based on the conditions. I am grateful to have seen this place in all its sunny, windy, rainy, foggy, icy beauty. I am here for the weather, whatever weather the Arctic has for us. Chris Speck, Grosvenor Teacher Fellow, writes… Embarkation on July 13 was immediately followed by the arrival of a blue whale spouting and fluking off the bow. You couldn’t write a better opening ceremony. What has continued to amaze me about this experience as a Grosvenor Teacher Fellow is the combination of suspense and inevitability. I knew the Lofoten Islands would be spectacular, but I was surprised at just how striking they were. I knew we would encounter wildlife on this trip, but I continue to be shocked at its number and diversity. As a middle school teacher, I will take the experiences and images from this trip into my curriculum. The Arctic will now be a part of my lessons on food webs, adaptations, and evolution. The struggles of the Indigenous Sami mirror those of various Indigenous groups in my own state. This voyage has shown that a place is not only the land and the creatures that call it home but also how we as people interact with it and each other. Many assume the Arctic has a limited palette. White polar bears, white arctic terns, white kittiwakes, and grey seals. I was happily surprised to see a palette that defied my expectations. Eons old, blue ice dappled glaciers. Purples, yellows, and even bright red lichens pepper the landscape.
