Bergen, Norway
After leaving Scotland and the Shetlands behind yesterday afternoon, we set our course almost directly east and across the North Sea, a body of water that, temporarily at least, lived up to its rather notorious reputation. However, after only a few hours, the sea seemed content that its point had been made and the conditions improved markedly for the remainder of our 18-hour transit. The journey was by far our longest single stretch of the expedition and one that had us traveling in the opposite direction than that of the Vikings hundreds of years ago. We have seen remnants of their handiwork in the British Isles, but today we ventured into the former heart of the Norse realm, Norway.
We pulled into Bergen, Norway during breakfast this morning under cloudy skies and intermittent rain showers; which is to say: under typical Bergen weather. The city of around 275,000 inhabitants is Norway’s second largest after Oslo, but is perhaps better known as the rainiest city in Europe with an average of over 280 rainy days per year. However, the people of Bergen don’t let that stop them from enjoying their city or its beautiful countryside. Even in the cold and damp weather today, most Bergeners were up in the hillsides making the city’s annually held trek along the seven mountains that ring the backside of the city. Some people finish in time for an afternoon stop at the market, but others don’t finish until well into the evening hours. Of course, that’s okay here under the midnight sun where we are only a few weeks away from 24-hour, light-filled days.
As tempting as the trek may have sounded to us after the day at sea, we had other activities in mind. Starting off with a ride through the city, which once served as Norway’s capital, we made our way to the house and museum of the famed local composer, Edvard Grieg. His home sits atop one of Bergen’s many hills overlooking the water below and is a great source of pride for the Norwegians, who have spared no expense in its maintenance and the modern museum addition. After stepping back in time to appreciate his muse and influences, it was time to get to know the city a little more intimately…on foot.
Though hilly, the city is great for walking because it remains fairly compact pinned in between the mountains and the natural harbor. And it’s the harbor that has best served the city throughout the centuries. Over 1,000 years ago, the waters here likely launched many of the Viking ships on their way westward to the modern day United Kingdom and then also on to Iceland, Greenland, and even North America. Later, from the 12th to 17th century, the harbor served as the northeastern-most outpost for the famed Hanseatic League, the powerful merchants that controlled the Baltic and much of Europe during their time. Even today, Bergen’s harbor is a busy and bustling place of trade and transport. Of course, through all the years, it has also been home to local fishermen who’ve depended upon the seas for their livelihood. And though the harbor itself offers safe haven, many of those men never returned home from their time in the treacherous North Sea. The city of Bergen, however, does not forget its past. Whether it be the former dockside warehouses of the Hanseatic merchants that still stand (though with a slight lean nowadays), or the 12th century stave church of St. Mary that had to be rebuilt because of fire a few years ago, Bergen embraces its past and proudly puts it on display. And to remember and recognize the sacrifices of all those lost seafarers throughout the centuries, the city has added the fine monument seen here to its market square in their honor. The 2-story structure consists of a series of detailed statues and reliefs depicting the progression of Norway’s mariners through the years and leaves little doubt as to their importance in local history.
After leaving Scotland and the Shetlands behind yesterday afternoon, we set our course almost directly east and across the North Sea, a body of water that, temporarily at least, lived up to its rather notorious reputation. However, after only a few hours, the sea seemed content that its point had been made and the conditions improved markedly for the remainder of our 18-hour transit. The journey was by far our longest single stretch of the expedition and one that had us traveling in the opposite direction than that of the Vikings hundreds of years ago. We have seen remnants of their handiwork in the British Isles, but today we ventured into the former heart of the Norse realm, Norway.
We pulled into Bergen, Norway during breakfast this morning under cloudy skies and intermittent rain showers; which is to say: under typical Bergen weather. The city of around 275,000 inhabitants is Norway’s second largest after Oslo, but is perhaps better known as the rainiest city in Europe with an average of over 280 rainy days per year. However, the people of Bergen don’t let that stop them from enjoying their city or its beautiful countryside. Even in the cold and damp weather today, most Bergeners were up in the hillsides making the city’s annually held trek along the seven mountains that ring the backside of the city. Some people finish in time for an afternoon stop at the market, but others don’t finish until well into the evening hours. Of course, that’s okay here under the midnight sun where we are only a few weeks away from 24-hour, light-filled days.
As tempting as the trek may have sounded to us after the day at sea, we had other activities in mind. Starting off with a ride through the city, which once served as Norway’s capital, we made our way to the house and museum of the famed local composer, Edvard Grieg. His home sits atop one of Bergen’s many hills overlooking the water below and is a great source of pride for the Norwegians, who have spared no expense in its maintenance and the modern museum addition. After stepping back in time to appreciate his muse and influences, it was time to get to know the city a little more intimately…on foot.
Though hilly, the city is great for walking because it remains fairly compact pinned in between the mountains and the natural harbor. And it’s the harbor that has best served the city throughout the centuries. Over 1,000 years ago, the waters here likely launched many of the Viking ships on their way westward to the modern day United Kingdom and then also on to Iceland, Greenland, and even North America. Later, from the 12th to 17th century, the harbor served as the northeastern-most outpost for the famed Hanseatic League, the powerful merchants that controlled the Baltic and much of Europe during their time. Even today, Bergen’s harbor is a busy and bustling place of trade and transport. Of course, through all the years, it has also been home to local fishermen who’ve depended upon the seas for their livelihood. And though the harbor itself offers safe haven, many of those men never returned home from their time in the treacherous North Sea. The city of Bergen, however, does not forget its past. Whether it be the former dockside warehouses of the Hanseatic merchants that still stand (though with a slight lean nowadays), or the 12th century stave church of St. Mary that had to be rebuilt because of fire a few years ago, Bergen embraces its past and proudly puts it on display. And to remember and recognize the sacrifices of all those lost seafarers throughout the centuries, the city has added the fine monument seen here to its market square in their honor. The 2-story structure consists of a series of detailed statues and reliefs depicting the progression of Norway’s mariners through the years and leaves little doubt as to their importance in local history.
