Hornsund
It was 6 AM as Captain Leif Skog navigated the National Geographic Endeavour through the ice toward the massive glacier that stretched out before us. We have returned to the Ice Age here in Hornsund, the southern-most fjord along the rugged west coast of Spitsbergen Island. Dressed for the weather – a welcome relief from the oppressive heat and humidity of summer back home – early risers took aim with their cameras at the sculpted face of the glacier. The sound of white thunder echoed along the ice cliff as huge chunks of ice tumbled into the fjord. Our Photo Expedition to the far north began with a bang!
After breakfast a series of safety briefings prepared us for the adventures that await us exploring Svalbard. This Arctic archipelago lies between 76 and 80 degrees north, and 60 percent of the land mass is covered by glacier ice. This is not your typical vacation destination.
Dressed and ready, we load into Zodiacs for a water-level view of Samarin Glacier, a tidewater glacier that reaches the sea in south arm of Hornsund. Beluga whales are sighted early on, but quickly disappear into the murky depths. We cruise slowly along the glacier face observing and photographing curious bearded seals that come close to investigate us. Hundreds of kittiwakes feed in the upwelling meltwaters that rise along the base of the towering ice cliff. Artistic mist clings to the jagged peaks that tower over the fjord. It’s a scene that few of us have experienced – or photographed – before.
As we warm up inside with a hot lunch, the ship repositions to the north side of Hornsund near a small point of land known as Gnålodden. Our plans are to go ashore to visit the historic trappers hut situated at the base of a towering bird cliff. Stepping ashore we discover that the nutrients provided by the thousands upon thousands of kittiwakes and other nesting seabirds results in luxuriant tundra vegetation along the shore and up the talus slopes. Tripods in hand, we split up into groups and search for the perfect close-up photos of the miniature tundra wildflowers that carpet the spongy tundra underfoot. Along the way our guest photographer, Art Wolfe, points out the artistic details of water droplets clinging to a bird feather and gives a short lesson on close-up photography.
Back on board in time for a hot shower before cocktail hour, our day is still not done. This time the ship navigates in Burgerbukta, a northern arm of Hornsund. Here we find ice floes jammed in front of yet another glacier. Numerous ringed seals are hauled out on the melting sea ice directly in front of the ship. We linger here hoping an Ice Bear will appear in search of its favorite meal. With all eyes on the look out, we finally give up the search and retreat inside for a well-deserved cocktail and a hearty dinner. As the ship leaves Hornsund and turns toward the South Cape of Spitsbergen, our heads hit the pillow and the soothing motion of the ship rocks us gently to sleep.
It was 6 AM as Captain Leif Skog navigated the National Geographic Endeavour through the ice toward the massive glacier that stretched out before us. We have returned to the Ice Age here in Hornsund, the southern-most fjord along the rugged west coast of Spitsbergen Island. Dressed for the weather – a welcome relief from the oppressive heat and humidity of summer back home – early risers took aim with their cameras at the sculpted face of the glacier. The sound of white thunder echoed along the ice cliff as huge chunks of ice tumbled into the fjord. Our Photo Expedition to the far north began with a bang!
After breakfast a series of safety briefings prepared us for the adventures that await us exploring Svalbard. This Arctic archipelago lies between 76 and 80 degrees north, and 60 percent of the land mass is covered by glacier ice. This is not your typical vacation destination.
Dressed and ready, we load into Zodiacs for a water-level view of Samarin Glacier, a tidewater glacier that reaches the sea in south arm of Hornsund. Beluga whales are sighted early on, but quickly disappear into the murky depths. We cruise slowly along the glacier face observing and photographing curious bearded seals that come close to investigate us. Hundreds of kittiwakes feed in the upwelling meltwaters that rise along the base of the towering ice cliff. Artistic mist clings to the jagged peaks that tower over the fjord. It’s a scene that few of us have experienced – or photographed – before.
As we warm up inside with a hot lunch, the ship repositions to the north side of Hornsund near a small point of land known as Gnålodden. Our plans are to go ashore to visit the historic trappers hut situated at the base of a towering bird cliff. Stepping ashore we discover that the nutrients provided by the thousands upon thousands of kittiwakes and other nesting seabirds results in luxuriant tundra vegetation along the shore and up the talus slopes. Tripods in hand, we split up into groups and search for the perfect close-up photos of the miniature tundra wildflowers that carpet the spongy tundra underfoot. Along the way our guest photographer, Art Wolfe, points out the artistic details of water droplets clinging to a bird feather and gives a short lesson on close-up photography.
Back on board in time for a hot shower before cocktail hour, our day is still not done. This time the ship navigates in Burgerbukta, a northern arm of Hornsund. Here we find ice floes jammed in front of yet another glacier. Numerous ringed seals are hauled out on the melting sea ice directly in front of the ship. We linger here hoping an Ice Bear will appear in search of its favorite meal. With all eyes on the look out, we finally give up the search and retreat inside for a well-deserved cocktail and a hearty dinner. As the ship leaves Hornsund and turns toward the South Cape of Spitsbergen, our heads hit the pillow and the soothing motion of the ship rocks us gently to sleep.
