Well it might be the first day of spring in the Southern Hemisphere, and in fact it felt like a spring day here in the north! National Geographic Explorer cruised slowly into Fram Fiord before breakfast, with dappled sunlight hitting the small bergs and mountainsides. A very picturesque scene, with calm waters and slowly increasing blue sky patches.
It wasn’t long before we had spotted several small herds of muskox on the steep slopes and tundra filled valleys. We anchored and then breakfasted and readied ourselves for our last foray ashore on Ellesmere Island. Heading ashore the hikers were first in and started to head up the valley towards one of the muskox herds. Meanwhile kayakers primed themselves for another paddling experience.
As the groups of hikers surged over the tundra looking for signs of the muskox herd, they examined the granitic landscape, with excellent flora still present and enjoying the last rays of the autumn sunlight, before withering and readying themselves for the onset of winter. Peeking over the ridgelines we spotted the first muskox, a large male with only one horn and a very shaggy pelage. He grunted deeply several times, before another animal, presumably a female with a large youngster came into view. With nearly 70 people standing watching these impressive beasts, we moved slowly closer, only to disturb another mother and large calf, whom we hadn’t seen, hidden by a ridge. They moved to the safety of the male. They stood and fed for some time in front of us, with the male rubbing his face intently on a large boulder, and grunting every now and then. As they moved off slowly, we reveled in the fact we had been so close to these beasts, and had such great, extended views.
Gradually the groups broke up, and the long hikers headed up the valley, getting extensive views of the landscape. Meanwhile the medium hikers spent time wandering back and around to the landing. Other groups wandered a little closer to the landing, and some did Zodiac tours of the fjord. As everyone headed back to the ship, they fortified themselves for the Polar Plunge! With music playing, vodka flowing, and bathrobes being dropped all around, the frigid waters of Fram Fjord felt our presence! A good number of guests and staff took on the challenge and broke the surface of the 32 degree Fahrenheit Arctic water, feeling utterly alive...a few minutes after drying off!
As we lunched the ship cruised out of the fjord and headed in a generally westerly direction towards Baffin Bay, the entrance of which had a several mile wide finger of sea ice as a barrier. We passed our good friends on the Hanseatic, passing close by and exchanging blasts on the ships horn. Into the open waters of Baffin Bay we started to feel slight motion of the ocean, indeed the first time we have actually felt some motion on this particular trip. The afternoon also had presentations from Robyn on Greenland, and Ralph Lee on Great Voyages. Heading now in a southeasterly direction we will again see land in a day and a half, this time the coast of Greenland.
