Back and forth we roll, to and fro, over (but certainly not under) the waves we go. Crossing the Drake Passage, now officially recognized as a body of water, is a mariner milestone that is never the same journey twice. Over 200 nautical miles of open ocean are at the mercy of the truly unbridled weather of the Southern Ocean. No mountain ranges stop or slow the winds that travel around the White Continent. Storms build and whip up an impressive sea state that tops out the scale used to measure such things. Winds simply continue in a clockwise rotation as they see fit. There are lulls between these systems, and with the right ship and team, a very pleasant crossing can be had.
2/20/2024
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Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
The huge distances we have covered on this journey meant that our last full day was spent almost completely at sea on our return leg from Antarctica. After a merciful lie-in, we crowded the decks as we sailed past Cape Horn, the majestic headland at the bottom tip of Hornos Island, the southernmost point of Tierra del Fuego and the entire South American continent. Despite its fearsome reputation, pleasant seas allowed for an enjoyable brunch before we plunged into our presentation schedule for the morning and afternoon. Naturalist Gail Ashton related her experience of living on the Antarctica continent for 18 months, Jonny Reid discussed marine mammal acoustics and the underwater soundscapes of this region, and Jess Farrer explained how the study of whale and seal poop can tell us so much about these animals. As we entered the Beagle Channel, the stunning mountains of Tierra del Fuego lined our passage to Ushuaia. Gathering in the Ice Lounge for the captain’s farewell party, we toasted a hugely enjoyable trip and the new friends we have made.
