Blue skies, relatively calm seas, and an abundance of seabirds beckoned us on deck today as we steamed due south towards the western Antarctic Peninsula. It was surprising to see our first iceberg before entering the cold seas of the Southern Ocean. The towering berg partially collapsed before our eyes, creating a huge splash as we watched seabirds from the aft deck. Several brief snow showers descended on us as we approached the colder waters of the Southern Ocean at around 60 degrees south; the sea temperature dropped from 4.5 to 2 degrees Celsius. Now we are truly in the Southern Ocean! From Naturalist Doug Gualtieri, we learned about the seabirds that call this unforgiving environment their home. It was superb to be graced by the very species that he was talking about. Our species tally for the day was ten petrel and five albatross species.
2/20/2024
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Cape Horn and Beagle Channel
The huge distances we have covered on this journey meant that our last full day was spent almost completely at sea on our return leg from Antarctica. After a merciful lie-in, we crowded the decks as we sailed past Cape Horn, the majestic headland at the bottom tip of Hornos Island, the southernmost point of Tierra del Fuego and the entire South American continent. Despite its fearsome reputation, pleasant seas allowed for an enjoyable brunch before we plunged into our presentation schedule for the morning and afternoon. Naturalist Gail Ashton related her experience of living on the Antarctica continent for 18 months, Jonny Reid discussed marine mammal acoustics and the underwater soundscapes of this region, and Jess Farrer explained how the study of whale and seal poop can tell us so much about these animals. As we entered the Beagle Channel, the stunning mountains of Tierra del Fuego lined our passage to Ushuaia. Gathering in the Ice Lounge for the captain’s farewell party, we toasted a hugely enjoyable trip and the new friends we have made.
