A dynamic skyline welcomed us to the day. Clouds crept through the valleys and wrapped around the mountains, landing on the fast ice filling the bays and fjords. After encountering Atlantic walruses in the morning, we set out to land for wonderful views of a glacier. Polar bear and Arctic fox tracks paraded about the snow as Northern fulmars and other seabirds streaked by. The rest of the day we explored the beauty of Bellsund, with sightings of two polar bears in the distance and delighted by epic views of this arctic landscape.
5/12/2025
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Alkefjellet and North
Arriving to Alkefjellet this morning, we weren’t too sure what to expect- would the Brünnich’s guillemots that call these cliffs home still be out at their wintering feeding grounds, or would some have returned to begin the courtship and nesting process of springtime? Our questions were quickly answered during our early morning approach, as the sky started to fill with tiny black snitches making their way too and from the cliffs. The undersea team took advantage of the opportunity to dive under the fertile cliffs, the marine life similarly aflutter with the influx of nutrients from above. But the real treat was heading out in Zodiacs to experience the sheer number of birds- estimated at more than 60,000 breeding pairs. The sky was abuzz, the water was abuzz, the cliffs were abuzz. It was hard to know where to focus! Luckily, we had plenty of time on the water to take it all in before checking in with the cocoa boat for a warm tipple to help us recover. This afternoon we turned and set sail northbound, hoping to find more four-legged friends on the ice. All eyes on deck, scouting the horizon, looking for that tell-tale sign of a yellowish blur that hopefully moves, bringing confidence that we have indeed encountered the king of the north, the polar bear.
